Diamonds, Sapphires & Signed Jewels Highlight Bonhams New York Fine Jewelry Sale

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December 9, 2016
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December 10, 2016


A grande finale of the spring season, Bonhams New York Fine Jewelry auction culminates its ‘Jewelry in June’ campaign as well as the auction house’s spring jewelry sales. Everything from glamorous diamond jewels to classic collectable designs comprises the June 20th sale of 131 lots.

A diamond ring

A diamond ring, centering a cushion brilliant-cut diamond, weighing 7.59 carats, flanked by two bullet-cut diamonds; mounted in platinum; size 4. Estimate: $200,000-300,000

 

Leading the sale is its a catalogue cover star, a stunning old mine-cut cushion shaped diamond ring of 7.59 carats (est. $200,000-300,000). The charming stone exudes the ideal faceting of these coveted old cushion shaped diamonds. Of D color, the diamond’s value is further increased by the partial signature and attribution to New York retailer Charlton, once known for its exceptional Art Deco jewelry.

A fine Art Deco diamond ring, C.D. Peacock, circa 1925 centering an emerald-cut diamond, weighing 4.94 carats, within an engraved mount, enhanced by single-cut and French-cut diamonds; signed Peacock; mounted in platinum; size 4 1/2

A fine Art Deco diamond ring, C.D. Peacock, circa 1925
centering an emerald-cut diamond, weighing 4.94 carats, within an engraved mount, enhanced by single-cut and French-cut diamonds; signed Peacock; mounted in platinum; size 4 1/2. Estimate: $90,000-150,000

 

A second exquisite diamond in the sale is a fine Art Deco diamond ring by renowned Chicago jeweler C.D. Peacock (est. $90,000-150,000). Weighing 4.94 carats, the emerald-cut diamond sits within an elegantly engraved mounting and accented by single-cut and French-cut diamonds. Founded in 1837, C.D. Peacock is one of the oldest jewelry stores in Chicago, having served the city’s most notable society members including Cyrus McCormick and George Pullman.

A diamond brooch pendant, Susan Sadler

A diamond brooch/pendant, Susan Sadler centering a round brilliant-cut diamond, weighing approximately 14.35 carats, the frame of ribbons of gold set with baguette-cut and round brilliant-cut diamonds; signed S. Sadler; estimated remaining diamond weight: 3.00 carats; mounted in 18k gold; length: 2 1/2in. Estimate: $120,000-150,000

 

Set within a more modern design is another important diamond in the sale, a round brilliant-cut of 14.35 carats (est. $120,000-150,000). The sizable stone centers a brooch/pendant by award-winning jewelry designer and artist Susan Sadler.

An elegant sapphire and diamond ring

An elegant sapphire and diamond ring centering a rectangular step-cut sapphire, weighing approximately 18.43 carats, enhanced by two triangular-cut diamonds, weighing approximately 1.00 and 1.01 carats; mounted in platinum; size 6 1/2. Estimate: $200,000-300,000

 

For sapphire lovers, the sale features a spectacular 18.43-carat rectangular step-cut Ceylon sapphire and diamond ring (est. $200,000-300,000), with a certificate indicating it is unheated and of Ceylon origin. A more accessible sapphire, though just as beautiful, is a sugarloaf Burmese sapphire cabochon of 15.00 carats (est. $20,000-30,000).

A sapphire and diamond ring

A sapphire and diamond ring centering a sugarloaf sapphire cabochon, weighing approximately 15.00 carats, set within a frame of circular-cut diamonds, between similarity cut diamond-set shoulders; mounted in platinum; size 7 1/4. Estimate: $20,000-30,000

 

In addition to important gems, the sale includes a number of great signed pieces by the most important names in jewelry – Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany & Co., Bulgari, Buccellati, David Webb, Verdura and Seaman Schepps.

A sapphire and diamond ring, Buccellati - Estimate: $15,000-20,000
A turquoise and diamond "Rose de Noël" brooch, Van Cleef & Arpels - Estimate: $25,000-35,000
A pair of citrine and diamond ear clips, Buccellati - Estimate: $4,000-6,000
A pair of agate and citrine clips, Seaman Schepps - Estimate: $2,000-4,000
An enamel, ruby and diamond elephant brooch, David Webb - Estimate: $3,000-5,000
An amethyst and diamond "Bird on a Rock" brooch, Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. - Estimate $18,000-25,000
An 18k gold "Draperie" necklace, Cartier, 1999 - Estimate: $10,000-15,000
A topaz and diamond "Lucea Waterfall" pendant necklace, Bulgari - Estimate: $8,000-12,000

 

Lastly, the auction includes several elegant diamond jewels that echo the glamour of the bygone eras during which they were made. One in particular, a diamond-set French Art Moderne leaf brooch, circa 1935 (est. $30,000-50,000), is strikingly similar in size and design to jewels made by the House of Boivin during this period. The brooch interprets nature’s movement in an elegantly simple silhouette whose surface is textured by chunky old mine diamonds.

An art moderne diamond brooch, French circa 1935 of leaf design, set throughout with old European-cut diamonds; with French assay marks; estimated total diamond weight: 14.00 carats; mounted in platinum and 18k white gold; length: 4in. Estimate: $30,000-50,000

An art moderne diamond brooch, French circa 1935
of leaf design, set throughout with old European-cut diamonds; with French assay marks; estimated total diamond weight: 14.00 carats; mounted in platinum and 18k white gold; length: 4in. Estimate: $30,000-50,000

 

A second diamond-set brooch invokes the feminine elegance of the 1950s, during which fashion took a new direction that accentuated the female form with cinched waists, fitted tops and flared skirts. Dior’s New Look was best accessorized by dazzling diamond jewels like this stylized floral spray brooch, circa 1950, (est. $15,000-20,000) from the sale.

A diamond brooch, circa 1950

A diamond brooch, circa 1950 of stylized flower spray design, the stems set with baguette-cut diamonds and terminating in a round brilliant-cut diamond, the ribbon tie set with round brilliant-cut diamonds; estimated total diamond weight: 10.50 carats; mounted in platinum and 18k white gold; length: 2 3/4in. Estimate: $15,000-20,000

 

A final favorite from the sale is a late 19th century opal, diamond and ruby salamander brooch (est. $5,000-7,000), whose opalescent body is electric with light and color.

A late 19th century opal, diamond and ruby salamander brooch

A late 19th century opal, diamond and ruby salamander brooch the sinuous body set throughout with opal cabochons, accented by old mine-cut diamonds, with ruby cabochon eyes and nose; accompanied by a fitted case by Carrington & Co., Regent St., London; mounted in silver-topped gold; length: 4 1/4in. Estimate: $5,000-7,000

 

Auction preview hours (open to the public): Fine Jewelry in New York, Jun. 17 from 10 a.m.-5 p.m. EST; Jun. 18 from 12 p.m.-5 p.m. EST; Jun. 19 from 12 p.m.-5 p.m.; and Jun. 20 from 10 a.m.-1 p.m. EST.



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