A grande finale of the spring season, Bonhams New York Fine Jewelry auction culminates its ‘Jewelry in June’ campaign as well as the auction house’s spring jewelry sales. Everything from glamorous diamond jewels to classic collectable designs comprises the June 20th sale of 131 lots.
Leading the sale is its a catalogue cover star, a stunning old mine-cut cushion shaped diamond ring of 7.59 carats (est. $200,000-300,000). The charming stone exudes the ideal faceting of these coveted old cushion shaped diamonds. Of D color, the diamond’s value is further increased by the partial signature and attribution to New York retailer Charlton, once known for its exceptional Art Deco jewelry.
A second exquisite diamond in the sale is a fine Art Deco diamond ring by renowned Chicago jeweler C.D. Peacock (est. $90,000-150,000). Weighing 4.94 carats, the emerald-cut diamond sits within an elegantly engraved mounting and accented by single-cut and French-cut diamonds. Founded in 1837, C.D. Peacock is one of the oldest jewelry stores in Chicago, having served the city’s most notable society members including Cyrus McCormick and George Pullman.
Set within a more modern design is another important diamond in the sale, a round brilliant-cut of 14.35 carats (est. $120,000-150,000). The sizable stone centers a brooch/pendant by award-winning jewelry designer and artist Susan Sadler.
For sapphire lovers, the sale features a spectacular 18.43-carat rectangular step-cut Ceylon sapphire and diamond ring (est. $200,000-300,000), with a certificate indicating it is unheated and of Ceylon origin. A more accessible sapphire, though just as beautiful, is a sugarloaf Burmese sapphire cabochon of 15.00 carats (est. $20,000-30,000).
In addition to important gems, the sale includes a number of great signed pieces by the most important names in jewelry – Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany & Co., Bulgari, Buccellati, David Webb, Verdura and Seaman Schepps.
Lastly, the auction includes several elegant diamond jewels that echo the glamour of the bygone eras during which they were made. One in particular, a diamond-set French Art Moderne leaf brooch, circa 1935 (est. $30,000-50,000), is strikingly similar in size and design to jewels made by the House of Boivin during this period. The brooch interprets nature’s movement in an elegantly simple silhouette whose surface is textured by chunky old mine diamonds.
A second diamond-set brooch invokes the feminine elegance of the 1950s, during which fashion took a new direction that accentuated the female form with cinched waists, fitted tops and flared skirts. Dior’s New Look was best accessorized by dazzling diamond jewels like this stylized floral spray brooch, circa 1950, (est. $15,000-20,000) from the sale.
A final favorite from the sale is a late 19th century opal, diamond and ruby salamander brooch (est. $5,000-7,000), whose opalescent body is electric with light and color.
Auction preview hours (open to the public): Fine Jewelry in New York, Jun. 17 from 10 a.m.-5 p.m. EST; Jun. 18 from 12 p.m.-5 p.m. EST; Jun. 19 from 12 p.m.-5 p.m.; and Jun. 20 from 10 a.m.-1 p.m. EST.